Which leg is which
The body (or blade) is the long leg, 24" by 2" on a standard steel square. The tongue is the short leg, 16" by 1-1/2". For stairs the unit rise goes on the tongue and the unit run on the body, both read on the outside edges.
Framing square stair gauge guide: clamp the stair gauges at the unit rise on the tongue and the unit run on the body, trace, then step along the board. For 7-3/16" × 10" the line climbs at 35.8° with a 12-5/16" step-off. Print the 1:1 notch template, the angle protractor and the shop checklists at 100%.
× 5 risers = 36"
Framing square · stair gauges
7-3/16" · Every riser, including the first, finishes at the same height.
10" · Measured nosing to nosing, horizontally.
24.40" · Inside the comfortable band most people climb without thinking.
1" · Required on closed risers where the tread is under 11". Open risers are exempt.
5-7/16" · Uncut wood left under each notch of the 2x12.
40" · Within the prescriptive horizontal span.
11-1/2" o.c. · 2x or 5/4 treads may span 18" at most between cut stringers.
2x12 · Prescriptive minimum for deck stair stringers.
36" · Clear width above the handrail height.
36" · Under the 151" limit for one flight.
5 risers · Four or more risers: graspable handrail 34"–38" above the nosing line, on at least one side.
36" · Open sides need a guard: 34" above the nosings, 4-3/8" sphere rule.
IRC 2021 section numbers; the 2024 IRC keeps these limits and renumbers the stair sections to R318. Your local code and inspector govern.
Sort any column, print a shop sheet, download CSV. Click a row to load it in the calculator.
| 10" | 31.0° | 11-11/16"− · 11.662" | 5-1/8" | 6-1/8" | 22.00" | ||
| 10-1/2" | 29.7° | 12-1/16"+ · 12.093" | 5-3/16" | 6-1/16" | 22.50" | ||
| 11" | 28.6° | 12-1/2"+ · 12.530" | 5-1/4" | 6" | 23.00" | ||
| 10" | 33.0° | 11-15/16" · 11.927" | 5-7/16" | 5-13/16" | 23.00" | ||
| 10-1/2" | 31.8° | 12-3/8"− · 12.349" | 5-1/2" | 5-3/4" | 23.50" | ||
| 11" | 30.6° | 12-3/4"+ · 12.777" | 5-5/8" | 5-5/8" | 24.00" | ||
| 10" | 35.0° | 12-3/16"+ · 12.207" | 5-3/4" | 5-1/2" | 24.00" | ||
| 10-1/2" | 33.7° | 12-5/8" · 12.619" | 5-13/16" | 5-7/16" | 24.50" | ||
| 11" | 32.5° | 13-1/16"− · 13.038" | 5-7/8" | 5-3/8" | 25.00" | ||
| 10" | 35.9° | 12-3/8"− · 12.352" | 5-7/8" | 5-3/8" | 24.50" | ||
| 10-1/2" | 34.6° | 12-3/4" · 12.760" | 5-15/16" | 5-5/16" | 25.00" | ||
| 11" | 33.4° | 13-3/16" · 13.174" | 6-1/16" | 5-3/16" | 25.50" | ||
| 10" | 36.9° | 12-1/2" · 12.500" | 6" | 5-1/4" | 25.00" | ||
| 10-1/2" | 35.5° | 12-7/8"+ · 12.903" | 6-1/8" | 5-1/8" | 25.50" | ||
| 11" | 34.3° | 13-5/16" · 13.314" | 6-3/16" | 5-1/16" | 26.00" | ||
| 10" | 37.8° | 12-5/8"+ · 12.652" | 6-1/8" | 5-1/8" | 25.50" | ||
| 10-1/2" | 36.4° | 13-1/16" · 13.050" | 6-1/4" | 5" | 26.00" | ||
| 11" | 35.2° | 13-7/16"+ · 13.456" | 6-5/16" | 4-15/16" (under 5") | 26.50" |
Clamp the stair gauges on the outside edge of the square. The throat must stay at 5" or more on cut stringers (AWC DCA 6 Fig. 28).
1:1 templates
Set your unit rise and run, then print at 100% (Actual size), landscape, on Letter or A4. Measure the 4" or 100 mm bar before cutting anything.
05 / Field guide
The framing square has laid out stairs for two centuries: set two brass stair gauges on it and it becomes a jig that draws one identical notch after another. This page shows exactly where the gauges go for your stair, the order to mark and cut, and prints a 1:1 notch template and angle protractor you can trace straight onto the board.
The body (or blade) is the long leg, 24" by 2" on a standard steel square. The tongue is the short leg, 16" by 1-1/2". For stairs the unit rise goes on the tongue and the unit run on the body, both read on the outside edges.
Screw one stair gauge to the tongue at the unit rise and the other to the body at the unit run. For a 36" deck that is 7-3/16" on the tongue and 10" on the body; the line between them is the board edge, 12-5/16" long and climbing at 35.8°.
Sight the board for crown and lay out on the crowned edge so it ends up on top.
Rather than sliding the square to the last line drawn, use the Running Tape Marks from the calculator: hook the tape at mark 0 and tick every step along the edge, then set the square to each tick. The bottom riser is then shortened by the tread thickness and squared off.
With a circular saw, stop each cut about 1/4" before the inside corner: the blade is round, so a cut that looks finished on top has already gone past the corner underneath, and overcuts weaken the throat. Finish the corners with a handsaw or jigsaw. Cut one stringer, test it on site, then trace it for the others.
Print with scaling set to 100% or "Actual size", never "Fit to page". Each template carries a 4" and 100 mm check bar: measure it before you trust the print.
Hold the first cut stringer in place before tracing the rest. Lay a level on each tread notch: every one should read level, and each riser should measure the unit rise from the tread below with the treads in place. If the bottom step is off, the tread-thickness deduction was missed; if the top is off, the total rise was measured in the wrong place.
No stair gauges? Clamp a straight scrap of wood across the square at the two marks as a fence. It does the same job, just more slowly.
Questions
Clamp stair gauges at the unit rise on the tongue and the unit run on the body, hold both gauges against the board edge, and trace along both legs for each step, moving the square to marks measured from one hook of the tape.
The shorter, narrower leg: 16" long and 1-1/2" wide. The 24" by 2" leg is the body or blade.
On the outside edges: the rise mark on the tongue and the run mark on the body, so the line between them is the edge of the stringer.
Yes for the straight runs, but stop about 1/4" short of every inside corner and finish by hand so you never cut into the throat.
Choose 100% or "Actual size" in the print dialog, turn off "Fit to page", then check the printed 4" or 100 mm bar with a tape before using it.
About 32.5°: atan(7 ÷ 11). A code-limit 7-3/4" × 10" stair is about 37.8°.
Raised decks, basements and storeys